Sunday, January 13, 2013

Tutorial: Dress Shirt Aprons


Alright, so this post is a tutorial for those dress shirt aprons circulating on Pinterest, that I showed you in my previous post. Here we go.

1. Find a dress shirt that you want to use. I recommend going one size up from your regular size. It's okay if it has a blemish or two (thrift store finds are great for this!), especially if they're going to be covered, which you can determine from reading through this tutorial.

1. Check the size on a helpful friend or the person for whom you're making it.  Check how you want it to lay and how much extra you have in the back.
2. Mark with chalk & measure to check the evenness.
3. Cut back panel up to 1-2 inches from the collar or to the horizontal back panel. Plaid is great for this because you have lines to follow! Love it.
4. Check that the head opening fits so you know how many buttons to keep buttoned. (You will sew up the front, so you want to make sure they can slip it on and off their heads easily.)
5. Mark where you want the sides to be, measuring for evenness from the armhole and collar. Make sure you leave seam allowance. You can use something long and straight to mark it, but it's not necessary because the edge will curve along the body and isn't going to really show if it's not straight. 
6. Mark the back, angling down slightly and meeting in the middle.  You can also just use the seams, but I like letting it wrap around so the wearer can lean a hip against the counter and protect their clothes.

7. Cut where you've marked. On the front I cut just slightly in from the side and then cut the top layer (front panel) only. Cut the back panels.
8. Mark the collar, leaving seam allowance. Pinking shears would be helpful here to lessen how much you have to fold into the seam. 


9. Mark the bottom of the side panels if you want to trim them straight, leaving seam allowance.
10. Fold all your edges over, iron, and pin down. I do sides first, then side panels, then collar, making sure the collar lies flat and evenly (start in the center if you need help keeping it even).  Another option at this point is to use bias tape for all the edging. If you want to do that, check out this tutorial for bias tape

11. Sew up the front, avoiding the buttons. (Seriously, my needle caught the edge of a button and snapped it in half on one of the previous aprons!)
12. Sew around the sides; I started at the bottom left (looking at the wrong side).

Pockets

     In general, I use the sleeves for the ties and use the cuffs as pockets, though if you use bias tape it takes care of the ties.  On my first apron, the cuffs were the style you have to use cufflinks with, so they were stiff and large, perfect to use as pockets.  For the second apron I made, the sleeves had those pulls that let you shorten the sleeves, so I used those and the buttons on them as decorative accents on my pockets. This third apron had pockets with pleats and two buttoning options.  The pocket style you choose really depends on the existing style of the shirt sleeves, because each is different and lends itself to a different look for your pockets.

13. Iron pockets once you cut to size; lay them out to match size and position, marking with chalk.  Since I used the cuffs, I'll sew up the "fly" on my pockets so they don't gap.
Sewing pockets: I usually attach mine by sewing the bottoms, hanging down, right sides together, and then fold up and sew the sides, wrong sides together.
Ties
14. Using a long segment from the back panel, cut two long pieces. Mine are about 26 inches finished.  (If you keep side panels, it doesn't matter so much that they're long.)  Fold the strips into itself like bias tape, each side in, then together, iron and pin.  Sew down but leave about 4 inches at one end to connect to the body of the apron. Fold one end over and sew down. I kept the finished edge (from the bottom of the back of the shirt) to connect to the apron. 
15. Connect the ties to the aprons by slipping the apron corner inside the fold of the tie. I sewed the ties around in a square to hold it well.

Enjoy your new upcycled apron!

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